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I'm just a curious eater looking to get back to when all food was clean and green. Follow me as I visit farms, talk to chefs, forage with experts, and eat my way closer to the answers to how our food system became so broken. I'm not searching for the trendiest bunch of kale or fanciest mushroom, but rather solutions for those of us who want responsible and sustainable sustenance.

Thursday, February 21, 2013

There's More to Farming than Organic versus Conventional: A Look at Integrated Pest Management


           While it is becoming easier to secure food from local sources due to the recent surge in Farmer’s Markets and Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) shares throughout the U.S., many of us are still in the dark when it comes to how our food is produced. Tackling the question of where was half the battle. Yet knowing where our food was raised does not ensure it was done so sustainably and ethically. Jargon filled resources that discuss organic, pesticides, biodynamic, etc. turns what already feels like a scramble to find quality foods into a question of public and environmental health. What do these words mean and how does that reflect how my food was produced? Many of my own acquaintances often ask me whether or not they should care about if a product is organic or not. I think most are mislead by the notion that all organic farms simply plant seeds, water them, and harvest the crops, without any interjections, synthetic or not.
 Although this idea is romantic, there is much more to farming methods than whether or not they simply use pesticides. Though many of us would prefer to consume produce grown without the use of any additives, this isn’t always possible due to varying environmental conditions. Most consumers cringe at the word “pesticide,” and rightfully so given the fearful seeds planted by mainstream media. However, just because your food is not grown “o’ natural” doesn’t mean it received a daily dousing of the deadly pesticides we see sweeping across fields in Food, Inc. In fact, Integrated Pest Management (IPM) is one farming method that is either commonly misconceived or a mystery altogether.
Before I proceed, I’d like to state that I am not advocating for the use of pesticides. I am happy to see the rising interest in sustainable food among the general public. However, I hate to see people shy away from local produce just because it is not organic. Indeed, the negative effects of pesticides are well studied and have been linked to the following: negative neurological and hormonal effects among humans; the evolution of pesticide-resistant pests; and the pollution of ground water. However there are other issues essential to deciding what food to purchase that do not revolve around pesticides, such as miles travelled before consumption, preservation techniques, nutritional value, and effects on the local economy. We have to look at the big picture when asking ourselves which is more sustainable: an organic fruit grown in Mexico and shipped to New York or a local fruit grown using IPM from within 20 miles? Proper knowledge of farming methods is essential to the ultimate understanding of food and should contribute to one’s shopping decisions. IPM is one such method that merits an explanation.
            Let’s break it down. What are the definitions of integrated, pest, and management? Cornell University’s Cooperative Extension explains that integrated indicates that many strategies from different disciplines are used to avoid or solve a pest problem. A pest is an unwanted organism that causes damage to animals, plants, and humans, while management is the process of deciding how to keep pests from reaching harmful levels. IPM therefore is a preventative approach that utilizes information on the life cycles of pests and their interaction with the environment to make informed decisions about how to plant and treat crops. IPM is an environmentally sensitive farming approach that encompasses several methods utilizing information on pests and climate to grow in a way that is economically efficient and reduces our dependency on pesticides and damage to the environment. Basically what this means is that farmers will take measures to evaluate the presence of pests, prevent their damage, and assess their effects before deciding how they will treat a crop, leaving chemical pesticide treatment as a least resort.
            IPM begins with preventing pests from invading to begin with. Like many other methods of farming, the first step in pest prevention involves manual cultural processes. Plowing, rotating crops, removing infected plant material, sanitizing equipment, and managing compost and manure effectively may seem like common sense, but they are essential to pest prevention. Farmers also use numerous structural barriers that protect the soil from elements such as wood that are favorable to moisture and pests that could easily penetrate the soil through direct contact.  They also use greenhouses and netting.
            While it may appear that farming is all about physical labor and reserved for those green thumbed, strong backed individuals who can tough the mud, it actually requires a great deal of scientific knowledge. IPM farmers must be knowledgable about entire ecosystems, ensuring that there is proper balance and mimicking natural cycles. One such method is the use of biological controls to prevent pests, such as biological control agents, or natural enemies of pests that can be introduced to a crops’ environment to attack pests upon detection. Farmers will introduce these species, which function as the antibodies or immune response to pests. Furthermore, just as we aware that our immune system reacts unfavorably when we sit in the rain on a cold day, famers use similar logic when choosing what plants are appropriate for each environment. They chose pest-resistant varieties that are less susceptible than other varieties to certain insects and diseases. Though it does not completely eliminate the need for pesticides, it lowers the likelihood.
            Such methods obviously require a great deal of planning, knowledge of the climate and environment, and monitoring. IPM farmers, like other farmers, work long hours to ensure their crops are sufficiently monitored. They check the area for pests, identify them if present, and evaluate the effectiveness of biological control agents. Once a pest is properly detected and identified, IPM farmers then evaluate the threshold, or tolerance level, of the infected crops.  If the number of pests is above the plant’s threshold, the damage done to the crops is sufficient enough to cause economic loss.  Essentially, the farmer must detect to what extent the pests have damaged the crops, how that affects their income, and whether or not the situation is severe enough to use pesticides.  If the pests have done enough damage, farmers must find a fast solution, but they aren’t spraying just yet! Their last option before spraying is harvesting early, which depends on the maturity and cost-benefit analysis of the crops. When nothing else can be done, chemical pesticides are used to bring the pest population under threshold and back under control. Most IPM farmers will use low-risk pesticides that are less harmful for consumers and the environment.
Although at one point I too hesitated upon buying anything that is not organic, after learning about the intricate process involved in alternative farming methods that ensure low levels of pesticides, I am less close-minded. I am also realizing that organic farming does not necessarily ensure the absence of all synthetic chemicals, but that's a topic for a whole other article. I think part of the reason why most consumers don’t know about IPM is that unlike organic farming that has an identity in the marketplace, IPM doesn’t yet have a niche. Organic farming even has a sticker and strict certification process. IPM, however, still doesn’t have its own certification process that is recognized by the US Department of Agriculture. This may be due to the complex control process used in IPM, which makes it hard to monitor across varying environments and farms since they are not limited to one strict set of practices. Every IPM process is personalized to the pests, crops, and climate of each individual farm.
Overall, I hope more consumers will realize that there are many more options available when deciding what kinds of produce to purchase. Although produce grown by IPM is nearly unidentifiable at mainstream grocery stores, vendors at farmers markets will surely be informed. It gives us one more reason to shop locally and meet our farmers. Ideally more consumers will be more understanding of IPM farmers, especially on fruit farms like apple orchards whose old trees cannot support crop rotation and other pest-preventative measures. Ask your farmer and you will see how many of those non-organics are also non-pesticide-dousing farmers who actually recognize the need to decrease our dependency on chemical pesticides. 

Friday, February 8, 2013

Hoppy Hoppy Joy Joy! Attention to L.I. Craft Beer Enthusiasts!

       I love me some craft beer, especially from the kick ass microbreweries right here on Long Island. While many of us enjoy the idea that our beer was brewed within a 50 mile radius, we tend to overlook the distance our beers' ingredients travelled prior to brewing. John Cadzella of Cadzella Hops, a farm that grows hops in Wading River, is trying to change this and he needs our help!
       The University of Vermont shared in a study on hops feasibility that in 1990, New York was the largest producer of American hops in the country, producing 49% of the entire U.S. yield. Unfortunately, the Prohibition slowed our stroll while the west coast continues as the nation's largest producer. Cadzella's family has been farming on his land for 4 generations. Inspired by the boom in craft beer popularity, he started producing hops and harvested his first crop last year. Many of the local breweries on Long Island are taking advantage of the availability of local hops, including Long Ireland and Port Jeff Brewing Company. However, it takes 45 minutes to harvest just one plant by hand.
       As his farm expands and more breweries are eager to get his gods, John is in a pickle. He needs a hop harvester that will potentially increase his processing yield to 1,500 bine, (the sprout of the hop plant that is used in brewing), per hour. The problem is, those suckers are BIG and EXPENSIVE! John's got his eye on one from Germany, much like many vine makers import their wine presses from Europe. Cadzella needs our support to back his project on kickstarter.com to reach his ultimate fundraising goal and bring the hop harvester to Long Island. Not only will it provide a huge advantage to local breweries, but John also plans on forming a co-op in which all hop growers on Long Island can use his hop harvesting machine. Let's raise our glasses, extend our hands, and show some support to our dedicated neighbor so he can spread the hoppiness and joy of Long Island.


http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1498739112/condzella-hops-unites-li-farmers-and-local-breweri?ref=card

Tuesday, February 5, 2013

Square Dancing at the NOFA NY Conference

       Drinking raw milk was not the only new experience I had in upstate New York last weekend. After our creamy pit stop we drove a few more hours up to the conference and were greeted by long white beards, rubber boots, and the smell of patchouli at the the Northeast Organic Farmers Association (NOFA) of New York annual conference in Saratoga Springs. As soon as I walked in I felt a surge of excitement, overwhelmed by the amount of knowledge available and thirsty to devour ALL of it. My mind was running, but that might also be because of the bluegrass and work songs sang by the apprentices of Sylvester Farm from Shelter Island, NY. Who would of thought...
       We kicked off friday with a Lecture by Shinji Hashimoto, a Japanese organic farmer from the village of Ichijima in Hyogo, Japan. Having continuously suffered throughout history from atomic bombs, earthquakes, typhoons, tsunamis, and the Fukushima nuclear fiasco of 2011, the organic farmers of his region are experts on recovering from natural and manmade disasters. Shinji shared their struggles and experiences maintaining organic farming in a country that uses 7x the amount of pesticides as the U.S. Through his work with the Japanese Organic Agriculture Association and the International Federation of Organic Agriculture, Shinji has been educating and advocating for CSAs (Community Supported Agriculture) and organic farming since 1989. His model for Japanese CSAs offers a lot we can learn from, especially the regular member-farmer meetings at which they settle disputes with a party and feast. I especially liked Shinji's naturally occurring closed-loop system that integrates livestock with his crops. Ducks and rice coexist. Ducks don't eat rice, but eat the weeds and bugs in the patty water. Their poop is also a natural fertilizer so there is no needs for synthetic fertilizers or pesticides. It's amazing what nature will do all by itself.
       After talking about Zen and the art of farming and planning a potential WWOOF (Worldwide Opportunities on Organic Farms) over a beer with Shinji, we mingled with like-minded individuals and feasted on a dinner comprised of local, organic products donated by NOFA farmers and producers. I'm glad I decided to go with my gut and pack flannels and jeans because a blazer and heels would not have been appropriate at this kind of conference.
       Saturday started the marathon and scramble for my brain. I started the day with a panel called, "Producing Food for Urban Consumers: A Panel on Planning & Marketing," given by Chris Fane of Grow NYC, Karen Washington of Just Food, and Sean Cummings of VINES and Binghamton Urban Farms. Their solutions for providing better access to local foods for low-income families in urban areas really inspired me to keep fighting for the same in the suburbs. I'd really like to get my Brentwood project going. Next I saw a lecture on farm direct marketing called, "Getting in the Side Door: Selling to Retailers for Beginners."Hopefully I can use the knowledge I learned there to help some local farms get their foot in the doors of Long Island restaurants. After lunch I sat in on a very advanced lecture on "GMO (Genetically Modified Organism) Labeling: Where Do We Go From Here?" that discussed the main traits and arguments in favor of GMOs. Thankfully our presenter spent the second half of the lecture disproving any theories in favor of GMOs, otherwise I would have been angry and confused. (I'm plan on writing a whole separate post on GMOs since a lot of people still don't really understand what they are and why they should care). Finally, I ended my saturday at "Foraing Fun: Fungi & Otherwise," which was by far my favorite workshop. Our speaker knew everything and anything about edible wilds, taking us through the seasons month-by-month and giving instructions of how to identify, harvest, store, and prepare various mushrooms and wild plants. I bought a book afterwards called "Identifying and Harvesting Edible and Medicinal Plants in Wild (and Not So Wild) Places" by Steve Brill and Evelyn Dean.  Saturday night ended a little something like this...Oh, did I mention I square danced with  Elizabeth Henderson, one of the pioneers of CSA and organic farming movement in the 70s?

Nick Martielli of Bluebird Dream Farm, LLC and Erik Danielson chow down on some organic turkey legs. Erik has worked for Roo Haven Farm, Stand Fast Beef, and Gong Garden and has an awesome blog: nautyideas.blogspot.com.  Note the barbarianism. 
       Although exhausted from Saturday's excitement and eagerness, Sunday was no day of rest. I started with "Self Promotion," a lecture to help introverts expand their business and people skills. It helped young farmers develop pitches for their ideas, how to communicate, and how not to be intimidated by people in suits. We did some fun exercises on eye contact, self-promotion, and breaking the ice. The last session of the weekend was "Organic Nutrition from  Medical Perspective,"which I am so sad I had to skip out on at the end. Sharon Ostfeld-Johns, a medical student from an organic farm family provided facts and theories about the health benefits of organic products. She didn't just list the scientific evidence favoring organic nutrition, but also recognized the evidence of studies such as The Standford Paper that argue against organic methods and explained why they were poorly conducted and biased.
      I'm getting tired thinking about how much I learned in that one weekend. I met so many amazing farmers, producers, and advocates for sustainable food. The weekend ended perfectly with a poetic and philosophical speech from NOFA-NY Farmer of the Year Scott Chaskey of Quail Hill Farms and the Peconic Land Trust. I have a stack of brochures, business cards, and vintage-inspired alternative energy posters I can't wait to frame for my house. Maybe I'll even go to the NOFA-Vermont conference this spring and take a stop at the Alchemist. Or start my own farm. Either way, this was one of the best weekends of my life thanks to my friend Bernadette Martin, owner of Friends & Farmers, Inc. and LI Green Markets. We drove home in a tired lull, in awe of some brioche from a local bakery and the many amazing individuals we met at the conference. It is truly refreshing to be surrounded by those who share your passion.